Teachers dinners.
They are wonderful but at the same time can be a native English teachers worst nightmare...and this is why. Korea, in a way (and don't quote me on this because I am neither smart nor a good writer and this could just be my mouth falling down the stairs), is a very obligatory culture. I say this because from my perspective, there's not a whole lot of personal choice involved in many different scenarios. First, my kids mind as well go to school 365 days out of the year because even though they are officially on summer vacation right now, they are all going to camps, supplementary classes, or to their academies everyday that they're off. But back to the teachers dinner. So basically, we were warned that throughout the year there will be several times where you will be told -most likely the day of -that you have a teachers dinner or outing that evening which also means that any plans that you had should probably be cancelled. And it's difficult too because most Koreans are very indirect so if you said that you couldn't go there's a good chance they won't tell you that you NEED to be there even though you really should be. I've had a couple of them already and it's not that they're bad by any means, I just think it would be more enjoyable if you had a choice...and could communicate with people. Luckily I have a super wonderful staff at my school and there are some teachers that are absolutely hilarious even though I can't understand them but once again I'm totally getting away from the point of this post.
So I was told a week in advance (a miracle-ask any westerner in Korea) that we were having an all day outing on the last day of school so I made zero plans. All I was told was that we were going to the President's house. No idea what that meant but ok. I slept through both of my alarms that morning because I was up until two getting smarter as I watched a marathon of Real Housewives of New York City. I managed to down two cups of coffee just in the twenty minutes that I scrambled around my Korean cave to get ready and then took another huge one with me for my walk to school. I got there and was already feeling nauseous because I had forgotten to eat and if I were to have had an IV at that specific moment it would consist purely of coffee plus I'm completely drenched in sweat which is the norm for every morning. Lovely I know. I must have looked like a train wreck though because one of the teachers told me I looked "sick" and asked if I had eaten breakfast. I told him I forgot...bad idea. I come back upstairs from a meeting with my co-teacher to find a Pepsi, a bulgolgi burger (bulgolgi is marinated Korean meat, usually beef, so don't worry it's not code for canine), and two huge rice cakes. And real quick, a Korean rice cake is nothing like what we consider rice cakes. There's quite a few different kinds actually but this is not a rice cake
This is a rice cake
So the two rice cakes were each about the size of my hand. I knew if I didn't eat all this stuff I might possibly offend someone and get a lecture about how I don't eat enough so I downed it all. Right then my co-teacher came up and told me to hurry because the bus was leaving so I ran downstairs and followed them to the main road where this tour bus was waiting. We all got on and my co teacher tells me we are going to the President's house but first we are going to lunch an hour outside of town. Normally this wouldn't be a big deal but for some reason my childhood problem of motion sickness decided to sneak up on me after about 30 minutes on a windy road through the mountains. And when I say childhood problem I mean BIG problem. Ask anyone who knew me from the ages of 5-12...I was an absolute barfing machine. I used to get carsick on the way to school in the mornings. No joke. One time in fifth grade I threw up in an envelope in the back of my dad's car that I'm pretty sure had some semi important paperwork in it. Anyways though, I start to feel barfy. My co-teacher starts talking about how she is proud of me for all of the crazy foods I've tried since I've been here which was so sweet of her just not a good time to relive the thrashing octopus. She also told me that "if I think Koreans are crazy I should meet a Chinese. They eat everything with four legs except a desk". Hahahaha. But still, I felt barfy. And then...she handed me a handful of candy a.k.a cough drops. I've seen a lot of Koreans eat cough drops as candy which is kind of weird because I personally hate that menthol nastiness. But she hands me three and tells me to eat them all. By the time I chewed all three and was in a near menthol coma I was so close to maybe barfing that I was ready to open the flap on my bag that was on my lap. Luckily we pulled into the restaurant within minutes so I literally sprinted off the bus.
We sat down at the restaurant and it's the whole staff of about 40+ teachers so the principal stands up and gives a speech. When he finishes, Mr. Lee (who everyone at the school is determined to make my husband), pops open the 25 bottles of beer and soju on the table so that everyone can make a toast. In Korean culture, drinking is a pretty big deal and is a symbol of comaraderie so basically if you get drunk with someone you are considered homies for life. Soju is at almost every Korean meal and is similar to vodka but can be made out of rice, wheat, potatoes, or sweet potatoes...and I think it's pretty awful stuff. Especially when I'm carsick. Plus, I'm not a big drinker by any means, and especially by Korean standards. I enjoy a drink at dinner but definitely don't sit in front of 7-11 with a bottle of Soju on Saturday mornings. But Mr. Lee stands up and yells "Ladies and Gentleman! Ashaleigh! SoMek!" and hands me a glass that is half soju and half beer. My co-teacher stands up and makes a toast and when she finishes Mr. Lee says "One! One!" and downs his entire glass of SoMek. I take a sip and he yells "One!" telling me to drink it all. I know that if I drink the entire thing there's a chance that my entire stomach contents will reappear but I took it like a champ and then filled my glass up with coke and left it full because in Korean culture it's rude to let someone's glass be left empty. I managed not to upchuck though and left lunch feeling only halfway barfy...while 95% of the staff left not able to operate any heavy machinery:)
This is soju...and quite possibly the fridge of one of my co-workers, haha. The kimchee is in the back there somewhere...
We drove about 20 more minutes and ended up in the mountains at this building where we all filed off the bus and I found out that we were actually at one of the President's houses! It's called Cheongnam Dae and was a sort of getaway house through about 5 Korean presidencies and is now open to the public as a tourist attraction. It was on this enormous lake and literally went for miles with gardens, a full golf course, hiking trails, and the main house which is now a museum. It was a pretty cool deal and we went on a guided tour, which of course was in Korean, so everywhere we went after the tour guide was done speaking Mr Lee would say "Ladies and Gentleman! Ashaleigh! President room!" or "Ladies and Gentleman! Ashaleigh! This is lake!" hahaha. I'm thankful for having an interpreter:) When we finished we got back on the bus and of course my co-teacher hands be 3 more cough drops so I shove them all in my mouth and when she started to fall asleep 2 minutes later I spit them out and shoved them in my pocket Napoleon Dynamite style. Nice.
My friends Beth and Hannah come in 2 weeks and I am so excited I cannot even begin to explain. I'm going to have them eat every Korean thing I can think of! Get your bellies ready girls...
(compliments of Lynne Houlton photography)